John Donnelly John Donnelly

Portugal’s Love Affair with Cod

It all begins with an idea.

Portugal’s love affair with codfish, or bacalhau, is as deep-rooted as it is fascinating

Despite the irony of cod not being a native fish to Portuguese waters, it has become a staple and a national icon, with over a thousand recipes involving codfish. This passionate relationship dates back centuries and combines historical, cultural, and even religious factors.

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The story of Portugal’s love affair with cod begins in the Age of Discovery in the 15th century when Portuguese explorers sailed to new lands and encountered cod in the cold waters of Newfoundland. Salted and dried to withstand long voyages without refrigeration, cod quickly became a practical solution for sailors. The Portuguese recognized that this preserved fish could feed large populations without spoiling, which made it invaluable. Over time, cod became woven into the nation’s culinary traditions.

Catholicism has also played a significant role in cod's popularity. Historically, Catholics were required to abstain from meat on certain days, such as Fridays and during Lent. This made cod a favored substitute, being both affordable and easy to preserve. Dishes involving salted cod were thus integrated into religious observances and became associated with festive and family gatherings.

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Portuguese cuisine boasts an astonishing array of bacalhau recipes—often cited as 365, one for every day of the year, though in reality, there may be even more! This adaptability has allowed cod to become part of countless Portuguese dishes, from bacalhau à Brás (scrambled cod with potatoes and eggs) to bacalhau com natas (cod with cream), each with regional twists.

Even today, Portugal imports large quantities of cod, mostly from Norway and Iceland. The fish remains loved, served in both traditional and contemporary recipes. Cod dishes are often featured in celebratory meals, especially around Christmas and Easter, symbolizing the comfort and nostalgia of family and cultural heritage, often with a modern twist.

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Portugal’s love for cod is more than just a taste preference; it’s a deeply ingrained tradition that represents the nation’s resilience, adaptability, and reflects its cultural identity.

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